Thursday, March 21, 2013

Thoughts from the Spring Equinox


            Yesterday, March 20th, marked the very first day of spring.  Yet while there have been hints of spring in the air, I still find myself very much in the midst of a Danish winter.  Yesterday and today were cold and snowy days.  I rode home last night around 10pm in the blistering wind, with snow coming down, and there was a fresh layer of snow on the ground, which made it difficult to maneuver my bicycle.  I had to be extra vigilant and managed to make it home without wiping out (which has happened in the past during snowy rides).

            This week also roughly marks the halfway point of my time in Denmark.  I arrived around mid-January and will be leaving Denmark on May 17th, so in fact more than half of the semester has passed.  There are still almost two months left but I still keep getting the feeling that not much time is left.  Perhaps it’s because the weeks have been passing by so quickly here, and because two of the weeks I will be away, traveling in other parts of Europe.  It feels like only yesterday that I got back from my trip to Vienna and Budapest, but in reality it’s been almost two weeks, and now I’m getting ready for another trip, for which I’m leaving on Sunday (in three days).  Before I leave, I thought it would be nice to reflect a little on my experience so far, which is what this post is meant to be. 

            But now that I’ve started, I don’t really know what I want to write.  I guess my experience so far has been really “hygge” – a quintessentially Danish word meaning cozy or nice.  While I haven’t really had to leave my comfort zone that much, I do feel like my situation here has allowed me to explore a lot of new things, form new relationships, have a lot of fun experiences, and learn about a new culture.  Classes here have been pretty much a joke, and my grades don’t count for my gpa back home so it’s been a lot less stressful than school usually is.  Putting yourself in a new environment makes you re-examine who you are – what things you like, what is important to you in life, what your strengths and weaknesses are – and I am confident that I will return to the U.S. in May as a better person, more confident and more comfortable with myself, and more appreciative of the world around me. 

            Keeping this blog is fun but has also become a burden, because I feel bad when I don’t write anything even though I wanted to.  It’s also frustrating because I have so many thoughts all the time but it’s time consuming to record them, and when I try to write them down they often seem simplified and superficial; I can rarely capture the essence of how I truly feel.  This post was pretty impulsive – I didn’t know at all what I was going to write about before I started writing it - so if it seems a bit scattered that’s because it is.  I kind of just felt like writing, writing anything, and this is it. 

            I have been home all day today, catching up on stuff and watching the snow fall outside while sipping tea and hot chocolate.  It is wonderful to have a place where you feel completely comfortable and at home, a place where you can walk around in your PJ’s all day and not give a damn and grab spoonfulls of peanut butter or nutella from the pantry whenever you feel like it.  Today has been a really homey day.  Overall I haven’t felt much homesickness since I left the states, but there have definitely been moments where I have been hit by a sudden pang of homesickness, which have taken me by surprise.  Like when I see a cat and it reminds me of Noodle, or when I taste something that reminds me of my grandma’s cooking, or when I hear about things going on at Princeton that I am missing, like Terrace initiations.  But I know that time away from what you love and are used to is beneficial – it makes you appreciate these things more and see them in a new light when you get back. 

            So here’s to Denmark, and to time away from home.  I am really so grateful for this opportunity to explore the world and myself.  I keep thinking about people who are unable to travel, or who don’t even feel safe in their own homes, or who are separated by their loved ones not by choice, but by circumstance and who don’t have the luxury of booking a flight back home whenever they want.  I am so lucky and I know it.  So thank you to my family for making this trip, and my life, possible, and to my friends back home for always being there.  I love you all.  This one’s for you.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Back to Preschool!


            Yesterday was not a typical day for me.  At around 11am, I found myself sitting on a foot-high stool,  eating lunch alongside a bunch of little Danish kids, serving them shredded cheese from a bag, and trying to answer their questions with whatever knowledge of Danish I could muster at the time.  How did I end up in this peculiar predicament?

            It all started the first week that I arrived in Denmark.  I was asking Inga, Jan’s girlfriend, about where she works, and she told me enthusiastically that she works as a cook at a preschool.  Curious, I asked her about what a typical day is like for her and for the children at her preschool.  Her description of what the kids’ days were like struck me as so perfect and idyllic that I was in awe.  This may have been partially because I’ve forgotten how awesome it is to be a preschooler, but I’m also confident that the average preschool in America is not as nice and natural as what Inga had described to me. 

            Basically, during the beginning and end of the day, as kids are being dropped off and picked up, they are left to play on their own.  They have toys they can play with and various activities they can do.  During the main part of the day, they are split up into groups by age – 6 months to 3 years and 3 to 6 years old – and they participate in lots of different activities  – painting, singing, dancing, storytelling, and others.  Then around 10:30am the older kids go outside and help the adult chef prepare food in the brisk Danish outdoors.  They help cut the vegetables, and they all are assigned to bring a different ingredient of that day’s lunch from home so that they actually see what their food is made of.  After the food is cooked on a big open fire, they usually all eat together outside. 

At Inga’s preschool, many of the teachers have been trained in mindfulness and one of the ways they put this into practice is with mindful eating.  This basically entails eating slowly and consciously, focusing on nothing but the food – its smell, texture, appearance, taste, feeling, etc. – and staying completely present in the current moment and activity of eating.  This also means that they eat in silence and focus their attention inwards, on their personal experience of consuming the food.  I am a huge fan of mindful eating and have been trying to eat mindfully regularly ever since I learned about it in my positive psychology class.  Personally, I think it leads to increased enjoyment of food, eating only as much as you need to feel full, and increased satisfaction after the meal.  I was surprised and amazed to hear that three to six year olds are being taught mindfulness and I got excited when I began to imagine the benefits that this education could confer on the kids.

After lunch, they typically play outside on the playground and in the woods for about two hours.  The smaller kids have naptime instead during which they are bundled up, placed in their strollers, and left outside to nap.  Leaving children outside to nap, even and maybe especially during the winter, is a common custom for Danish parents.  As an interesting side note, many Danish parents leave their young kids outside in their strollers while they go inside a supermarket or restaurant.  Social trust is so high and crime is so low in Denmark that most parents see absolutely nothing wrong with this practice and feel completely comfortable doing it.  That was one of the cultural norms here that shocked me the most when I first learned about it.  It’s easy to see why this was shocking to me; doing this in NYC would be much less safe and would probably lead to legal consequences, such as this case of a Danish woman visiting NYC:

            The routine for the kids that Inga described seemed so perfect and for some reason so quintessentially Danish that I asked if she would bring me with her to work one day.  She said of course, but recommended that I instead visit the preschool where her daughter, Esther, works as a “pedagog,” or a preschool teacher, since it is larger and more spacious.  We arranged a date for me to visit, March 13th (also known as bring your mother’s boyfriend’s American exchange-student to work day” in Denmark) and yesterday the day finally arrived!

            It was a cold and snowy day, and Inga arrived at 7am to pick me up from Jan’s house to bring me to Esther’s preschool.  During the ride there, she told me how the schools are open from 7am to 5pm, so technically parents can leave their kids at the school for the whole day, and many actually do so because most modern Danish families have two full-time working parents.  She also told me that in order to become a pedagog, you needed to attend a special school for three years where they teach you all the necessary skills and knowledge for the job.  This seemed pretty intense to me, but to be honest I don’t know how it compares to the certification requirements in the U.S.  Keep in mind as you read this post that both Esther and Inga work at public preschools – parents pay nothing for their children to attend – and that the vast majority of Danish children attend such public preschools.  For me, it was asnonishing to see such a beautiful, natural environment for children to grow up in being offered as a free, widely accessible public service.  I know that at least in NYC, the competition (between the parents, of course) to get kids into high quality preschools is nothing less than cutthroat.  They start training kids for the preschool evaluation from the womb.  Here in Denmark, however, a high quality and tax-funded preschool education beginning as early as 6-7 monhts is the norm. 

            Once we arrived at the school, I was greeted by Esther, who gave me a full tour and introduced me to her colleagues.  She showed me the various rooms: the singing and dancing room; the climbing/rough play room, which has mats on the floor and a mini rock-climbing wall and gymnastic rings; an art/painting room; the kitchen; and the open/free play room with toy cars and dolls and other toys.   Outside, there is also a big playground with various hand-made wooden play structures and a hill that the bigger kids use for sledding.  In short, this is pretty much the place I would want to be if I were a 1 – 5 year old and my parents had to work, and the place I would want to send my young ones if I had kids.

            Throughout the day, I hung out with various groups.  The day started with some songs about the class animal, the raven.  The theme of the preschool was Nordic mythology so they learned about the myths and sang songs about the different mythological characters.  At one point later in the day I was with a group of 3-4 year old girls painting recycled milk cartons (I didn’t paint myself but I watched and helped some of them).  Next I was with a different group of about 15 or so 3-5 year old boys and girls who were doing “massaging.”  When I first heard that these little kids were going to massage each other, I was bewildered.  Can they really handle that?  Will they be able to sit still?  Will they feel comfortable touching and being touched by each other?  But as soon as it started, all of my concerns melted away.  These kids were incredibly sensitive, kind, and gentle with each other.  Each pair of kids had a paintbrush that they used to gently brush each other on the hands, feet, face, tummy, and back.  It was probably the cutest thing I’ve ever seen.    

            In general, all the kids were so nice and kind and well behaved.  There was no fighting over toys, no yelling or screaming, no hitting each other.  They all just got along so well with each other, which was extremely impressive.  I think learning to get along with others and to compromise is the most useful thing that can be taught in preschool, along with developing self-efficacy and positive self-concept.  In many ways, the communitarian style of the preschool seems to serve as a perfect segue into the social democratic society of Denmark.  Everything in the preschool is done together, and there was not much individual praise.  However, the pedagogs were extremely nice and always gave the kids unconditional positive regard, encouraging them at every step along the way and never berating them for doing something “wrong.” 

            After the massage session, I joined the other group of 3-5 year olds for their food preparation and lunch.  Since it was snowing outside, it was impossible to set up a fire, so all the cooking was done inside.  Afterwards, we all sat around a table and relished the delicious meal.  This preschool, unlike Inga’s, does not practice mindful eating, but the kids were still relatively calm during the meal.  The cook gave me the bag of cheese for some reason and asked me to help pass it out to the kids.  I guess it was the type of bag that made it difficult for small children to get it out on their own.  We had pitas with a beef filling, cheese, veggies and dressing.  It was a simple but wholesome meal that everyone seemed to enjoy.  I was amazed by how much some of the kids ate; I was completely full after 2 pitas but many of them finished 2 without a problem and I think one of the 5 year old boys even went for a third!

            As we sat and ate, we did our best to communicate with each other.  Since my knowledge of Danish is pretty limited and they don’t know any English, this was a realchallenge.  It was extremely fun though.  I explained that I was a student from the USA now studying in Denmark, but considering their looks of confusion I’m not sure if  they fully understood me.  Then one kid started asking me if I have a father and if my mother is dead and if I have a girlfriend (yes, no, and no).  I don’t know what would make him ask about these things but I found it pretty hilarious.  Overall, even though the communication was limited and a lot of the time I just sat there with a goofy smile on my face because I didn’t understand they were asking me, I had a lot of fun interacting with the kids.

            Before I knew it, it was time for me to go home!  Inga came to pick me up at noon, but the kids stayed at school for a few more hours before they would be picked up by their parents.  Overall, I think I had a successful first day back at preschool after a 15-year hiatus and in the process gained a lot of insight into the Danish early education system.  While they don’t teach any concrete knowledge or skills like the alphabet or simple math in the preschools, a fact that I’ve heard some Danish people criticize, they do seem to prepare kids for real school and the real world by teaching them to get along, be calm, and have respect for themselves and one another.  In addition, all the activities they do are aimed at ensuring the kids’ physical, emotional, social, and cultural development.  Sadly, it seems as if early childhood education represents yet another area in which the U.S. lags behind other countries such as Denmark.  Fortunately, however, it seems like President Obama has made early childhood education one of his top priorities for his second term, and much legislation regarding this issue has been proposed recently. 

Hopefully, in the next few years our elected representatives in Washington D.C. will be able to stop squabbling like little kids and will learn to reach a solution together like good little Danish preschoolers!
            

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Travel Dilemmas


            One of the reasons I decided to study abroad in Denmark is that the program I’m in here places an emphasis on and encourages travel.  Everyone has at least two trips included in tuition with their core class, and in addition to the one-week trip everyone takes with his/her core class, we have two weeks of vacation which are primetime for travel.  Furthermore, Denmark’s location in Europe makes it easy to access a ton of places relatively quickly and inexpensively.

Denmark is surrounded by awesome travel destinations

            I really love to travel; this is something I have known for a long time now.  I have my parents to thank for taking me to places all over the world since I was a little kid.  Every year we would save up enough to make at least one big trip to somewhere cool.  A few times to Canada, twice to the Caribbean, once to Italy, several national parks including the Grand Canyon and Yellowstone, a few skiing trips in Vermont and Lake Placid and Quebec, and even a few cruises, the biggest one being to St. Petersburg and many of the Scandinavian port cities (including Copenhagen!).  I am extremely grateful for having such intrepid parents who, from a young age, instilled in me an adventurous spirit and exposed me to all kinds of different places and cultures. 

            Last summer, I made my first real solo trip, to Spain.  I studied in Toledo, near Madrid, for a month and then I traveled around other Spanish cities (Barcelona, Sevilla, Madrid, Córdoba, Granada) for a few weeks (below are some highlights).  The amount of fun and personal growth I experienced during this trip is what fully convinced me that I had to go abroad for a semester, and also affirmed for me that traveling, even on my own, is something I truly love.  So it’s pretty clear why the 3 weeks of travel embedded into the DIS semester appealed to me.

The view from the top of the hill in Toledo, where I studied for a month

Weekend trip to Madrid, where I met up with big sis Sylvia!



Un toreo (bullfight) in Toledo.  It was pretty sick but I sat through the first 3 torture-murders for the cultural experience

Clowning around in Barcelona

            Choosing where to travel during my weeks off has actually been a laborious process.  The problem is, there are so many phenomenal places to see and not enough time or money to see them all.  I know, I’m being a baby – waah, so many good choices I can’t decide, waah – but I’m just trying to convey my thinking when it comes to planning trips.  I came to Denmark with a vague conception of some cities and areas I wanted to visit, based on what I had read and heard from other people.  But there is so much uncertainty involved with differing prices, appeal of the location, and where your friends are going that it can get pretty confusing.  And that’s just in choosing the location.  Planning the trip is a whole nother process.  Luckily, I’ve adopted the attitude that no matter where I go or what I do, it’ll almost surely be fun and at the very least will provide a learning experience.  This has helped me to minimize stress about making travel plans.

            It would be ridiculous to write about all of my travels in one post; this would make for an unbearably long entry.  And I don’t think it will be possible to write about my travels in detail – I simply don’t have the time or energy - and anyways, I want this blog to focus on Denmark and Danish culture.  However, I do want to give an overview of the most important and impressive sights and activities of each location I go to.  I won’t post many pictures here but if you want to see more pictures from the different places, check my facebook – I usually post a good deal of pics from trips on there.  Or, if you’re not on facebook, ask me to show you in person when I get back.  I love showing pictures and sharing stories about my travels J

            I’ll make my next post about the two weekend trips I did early in the semester and then follow that up with a recap of last week, which I spent in Vienna and Budapest traveling with friends from my program.  Finally, I’ll end by noting that I have been letting myself down in terms of keeping up with this blog.  I started out with so many ideas for different entries about different topics, but in nearly 2 months I’ve only managed to write 4 posts (including this one).  So I’m making a vow to double the number of posts to 8 by the time I leave for my class study tour to Scotland on March 24th.  If I fail, so be it, but then I’ll have to bear the shame of not meeting my own personal goal and also the public ignominy of failing in front of all of the (3-4) readers of this blog.  Hopefully avoiding that humiliation will help motivate me to write more!


            

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Embracing the Cold


Before coming to Denmark, I had heard from various people that the winters there are really cold.  Alarmed, I looked up the forecast and was relieved to see that even in the coldest months of January and February, the lows were only around 28°F.  And yet a girl I know who studied abroad in Copenhagen a year before me told me that the winter in Copenhagen was in fact extremely chilly.  Pshh, I thought, lows of 28° are nothing – she’s probably from California and not used to the cold.  But of course I packed warm anyways and brought lots of layers.

Even the pigeons felt cold
When I got here, that first week was one of the coldest weeks I’ve ever experienced.  Or at least it seems that way in my memory.  My very first day here, as an orientation activity we had an “amazing race” that took us to see the major sights of Copenhagen, all outdoors, and we all froze our asses off.  Even the pigeons looked cold, as you can see in the picture.  I was also trying to take lots of pictures because we were seeing so many cool places, and I almost lost a few fingers to frostbite as a result.  That week, it got down to -10 or -12° C (10-14°F) in the mornings when I was biking to the train station.  That was perhaps the coldest I have ever felt, besides maybe when I went snowboarding at Mont Tremblant and it was like -10°F.  And that first week it wasn’t just cold – it was really windy, too, which makes it feel a million times worse.  There’s nothing to wake you up in the morning like gusts of freezing wind attacking you from all sides. 

That first day, and the first week in general, was a bit rough because I wasn’t really expecting it.  I thought it would be just like a typical New York winter, and it wasn’t, at least during that first week.  But truthfully, I’m glad that the coldest week of the winter chose to arrive in Denmark the same time I did, because it prepared me for the rest of the winter and made everything that followed seem mild in comparison.  And it has in fact been milder in comparison.  A normal temperature during the morning bike ride is between -3 and 1°C, around freezing temperature.  And yesterday it got up to an astounding 6°, and it was sunny!  Just a glimpse of what the spring months hopefully have in store.

A seasoned Danish couple dressed in matching onesies to weather the weather.
Still, the past few weeks have been quite brisk.  It’s pretty cool to arrive at the train station after my morning bike ride and find that my tears from the wind have literally frozen on my eyelashes.  And it’s not just cold outside – inside my house it’s chilly as well, at least in the basement, where I live.  But I’ve completely gotten used to sleeping and living in the cold.  The first week I was here, the heater in my room broke and I never even told Jan about it until a month later, just because I truly didn’t mind it.  And when I told him he replaced the heater but even still I don’t use it most nights.  Actually, scientific studies have found that the ideal sleeping temperature is about 60°F (http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/04/health/04real.html?_r=0) which is about what it is in my room at night without the heater.

The bathroom I use (also in the basement) is pretty cold too.  I don’t know whose idea it was to make the basement bathroom entirely marble, but that’s the way it is.  Even the toilet seat is a hard and cold – that’s probably the worst part of it.  The first time I sat down on it I literally sprang back up off the seat from surprise - it was like sitting on solid ice!  I quickly became an expert at taking really fast dumps, because otherwise I would have risked getting frostbite.  But by now I’m used to all this.  In the beginning I would secretly dread having to use that toilet.  I would have to mentally brace myself and work up the courage to just do it, but now I don’t even think two times about going #2.
My orientation group and I were in high spirits despite being nearly frozen to death
Another thing about Copenhagen weather is that it is gloomy as hell.  It’s cloudy almost every single day.  In addition, the days are really short during the winter further contributing to the lack of sunlight.  This can be a problem for some, especially people from sunny climates who are used to beach weather every day.  Lack of sunlight is known to cause vitamin D deficiency and is associated with Seasonal Affective Disorder, or SAD, a “winter blues” mild depression type of thing.  Apparently DIS knows about this problem, because they have “sun lamps” – lamps that simulate sunlight and are used in light therapy for SAD – which we can check out at the front desk.  I’ve done this a few times myself, although I’m not sure if it really has any effect on me or my mood.  I think I feel better after basking in the light but it might just be the placebo effect.  But that’s good enough for me!  Anyways, it’s so cloudy here that whenever the sun does come out it’s like a miracle and everyone actually rejoices.  “Hallelujah!” we cry ecstatically.  “The sun has come out today!”  Man, I can’t wait until the spring really arrives and it’s actually sunny and nice out.  By the time that happens though I’ll be packing my bags and getting ready to leave.

So to summarize, Denmark has been pretty cold and dark, especially the first week I was here, but I’ve quickly adapted to it and not it’s just a part of life like the sun rising in the morning.  In fact, I think I’ve even grown to like the cold.  Maybe it’s just a mental trick I’m playing on myself, but there’s definitely something undeniably refreshing about frigidity and a cold breeze in your hair.  But now, the days are getting longer and the weather is slowly starting to get nice.  The best thing about arriving during the coldest and darkest part of the winter is that it only gets better from there (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jk0dBZ1meio).